Walking among the dead: 200 Years of Fascinating Hoosiers

Perhaps touring cemeteries is not everyone’s cup of tea, but you can glean bits of history about your community and state from the silent tombstones in cemeteries. Especially in larger cemeteries, like Crown Hill Cemetery in Indianapolis.

Crown Hill was incorporated in 1863 and had its first burial in June 1864 (Lucy Ann Seaton). The 555-acre cemetery is the third largest non-government cemetery in the US. The cemetery grounds are open to the public for walking, biking, and yes, even picnicking. (A family plot near the Crown has a stone picnic bench to encourage this pastime that was historically done at the Crown before the cemetery existed.)

I often visit the cemetery to look for tombstones and family plots of famous people who I have encountered in my explorations around Indianapolis and the state. Sometimes I go out simply for a leisurely, prolonged walk among the peaceful roads and under the trees. I recently went on my first official tour of the cemetery: Two Hundred Years of Fascinating Hoosiers.

Understandably, the tour could not hit even a fraction of famous Hoosiers. (And what is famous for one person may not be for others. I am still on my quest to find two early important African American doctors in the huge African American section of the cemetery.) This tour focused on about a dozen people mostly concentrated in a particular section of the cemetery.

Some I knew. Some I didn’t. (Oooh. New people to research and learn about!) Some stories I knew. Some I had never heard (and wondered if they were apocraphyal…like Carl Fisher promoting his car dealership—the first—by floating a car sans engine overhead suspended from a hot-air balloon).

The Crown Hill Heritage Foundation, formed in 1984 to preserve the cemetery and its history, provides tours for a small fee ($5). The docent for my tour, Tom Davis, was quite knowledgeable about the cemetery and Indiana history.

Although we only stopped by a dozen or so graves, Tom peppered conversation about others buried in the cemetery as we walked from grave to grave. After seeing Paul Hadley’s grave with the newly installed flagpole flying the Indiana state flag (Hadley designed the state flag), Tom pointed out that many members of the Hoosier Group are buried in the cemetery. (Mental note: I’ll need to come back to see their gravesites.)

Two revolutionary soldiers are buried in the cemetery. (Another mental note to self.) Eleven Indiana governors, one Kentucky governor, and one Vermont governor are buried here. (Another mental note to self.) David Letterman’s dad is buried here; he comes to visit, but sporadically enough that he doesn’t always remember exactly where the gravesite is (and wanders around the section where his dad is buried calling out “Dad!”).

So whose burial sites did we see?

Paul Hadley (1880-1971)
Hadley created the state flag that was adopted in 1916. He was a resident of Mooresville and an artist (stained glass, watercolor painting).

Robert Hanna (1786-1858)
Hanna was a delegate to the 1816 Corydon convention (that led to the creation of Indiana) and a signer of the first Indiana constitution. He was originally buried elsewhere and then reburied in Crown Hill without a headstone. Recently a headstone was created and three elm trees planted around his burial site. (The Indiana constitution was signed under an elm tree, which inauspiciously died in 1925.)

Tom relayed the story of Hanna being the first and only person ever to take a steamboat up the White River, a river that was presumed to be unnavigable. He got the steamboat up the river (during high water levels) but then it proceeded to get stuck up river until the water levels rose again.

The numerous waterways in the state were replaced as the mode of transportation with the arrival of the railroad. Ironically, Hanna, the man who navigated the unnavigable White River, died after being hit by a train.

Eliza Blaker (1854-1926)
Blaker was an advocate of early childhood education, setting up kindergartens and then schools for teachers. Her school at 23rd and Alabama became what is now Butler University.

Tom shared how Eliza’s husband, who worked downtown, would walk her to and from the school every day, carrying her schoolbooks.

Jacob Dunn (1855-1924)
Dunn was a historian, author, and reformer. He was responsible for the secret ballot that we use in voting. And he was involved in the Indiana State Library and public libraries.

Booth Tarkington (1869-1946)
Technically named Newton Booth, Tarkington won Pulitzer prizes for two books that he wrote. He also was well-known for the numerous Broadway plays that he wrote, some of which ran simultaneously.

Benjamin Harrison (1833-1901)
President. Harrison is the only US President buried in the cemetery. He lies with his first wife, son, daughter, and second wife (who was the niece of his first wife).

Oscar McCulloch (1843-1891)
McCulloch was a pastor who originally believed in social Darwinism and that people were poor by genetics (!). (The latter belief is what led to the eugenics movement. Not a good period in Indiana or American history.) He later believed that it was possible to help the poor.

The McCulloch plot is shared with the Reynolds family. According to cemetery records, two of their dogs are buried in unmarked graves (Don and Rab). This was against cemetery rules but Reynolds was on the board, illustrating the age-old truth: if you are in power, the rules don’t apply to you.

Carl Fisher (1874-1939)
Crazy Carl Fisher is best known as the man who started the Indianapolis Motor Speedway as a proving ground for testing cars. He began selling bikes with crazy promotional tactics and then moved on to selling cars (at the first car dealership) with crazy promotional tactics.

One tactic he used was suspending a car sans engine from a hot air balloon. As the story goes, Jane Watts saw him floating overhead and said, “I am going to marry that man!” (Jane was the first of several wives.)

Fisher was instrumental behind the trans-US Lincoln Highway, which ran from NYC to the West Coast. Fisher was also responsible for developing what is now Miami Beach and getting a highway built from Chicago to Miami Beach.

May Wright Sewall (1844-1920)
Sewall was a well-known reformer in education, women’s rights, and the suffrage movement. Interestingly, she and her husband were not religious but during her later years she became involved in spiritualism and wrote Neither Dead Nor Sleeping. Before her husband died, he told her that if he discovered that Jesus was real, he would find a way to tell her from the grave. A medium did repeat his words back to May and May became involved with communicating with the dead.

Eli Lilly (1838-1898)
The Lilly mausoleum houses a number of the Lilly family with others in nearby plots. Eli himself was a colonel in the Union Army and the founder of present-day Eli Lilly and Company. His mausoleum is a bit unusual as you can see into it and read the engravings on each slot where a casket lays.

James Whitcomb Riley (1849-1916)
Riley, the beloved Hoosier poet of the late 19th century/early 20th century was laid to rest on the Crown, the highest spot in the original city limits (842 feet above sea level). He passed away July 22, but his remains were kept in the Gothic Chapel on the grounds until his final spot on the Crown was ready in October the following year.

We actually visited his site the day after the anniversary of his burial. His resting place was adorned with wreathes from a school group that visited on the anniversary of his burial. Of course, his headstone was covered with coins, a tradition started after his death by children who collected coins to help pay for his burial. These days any coins left on his tomb are gathered and given to the children’s hospital that boasts his name.

The view from his tomb overlooks the city. As our tour ended, we watched the sun set over the tree line.

The tour whetted my appetite to spend more hours wondering the cemetery grounds. I had picked up lists of famous people buried there, lists of the different trees growing on the grounds, and maps for both. I will be back. If not for more tours, then for self-guided wanderings among the dead.

Hoosier literature during the Golden Age

Indiana experienced a golden age of literature starting in the late 1800s. Traditionally the age is described as lasting from 1880 (with the publication of Ben-Hur) until 1920 (with the publication of Alice Adams). However, works preceded Ben-Hur, helping pave the way for a literary renaissance (or naissance) that lasted into the 1920s.

Why were there so many Hoosier writers with nationally and internationally known works during this time period? As a recent returnee to Indiana who is trying to readjust to the limitations of physical activity imposed by Indiana weather, I was struck by Victor Powell’s speculation. According to the former dean of Wabash College,

“I cannot understand why all the people who have speculated on the causes of all the writing emanating from Indiana have not struck upon the obvious one. It is clear to me that the cause is Indiana’s climate. The summers are much too hot and humid to do anything physically vigorous and the winters, because we are not far enough north to enjoy skiing, sledding, and skating, nor far enough south to enjoy a truly mild climate, present us with damp, chill, and slush. Hence, for most of the year, the Hoosier stays indoors and dreams, and what could be more conducive to writing?”

In celebration of the state’s bicentennial, the Lew Wallace Study & Museum is hosting a special exhibit, which lists the following popular early Hoosier works that precede, include, and succeed the golden age of Indiana literature.

Year Title Author
1871 The Hoosier School-Master Edward Eggleston
1873 The Fair God Lew Wallace
1878 The Witchery of Archery: A Complete Manual of Archery Maurice Thompson
1880 Ben-Hur: A Tale of the Christ Lew Wallace
1883 ‘Leven More Poems James Whitcomb Riley
1883 Hoosier Schoolboy Edward Eggleston
1883 Old Swimmin’ Hold James Whitcomb Riley
1883 The Storied Sea Susan E. Wallace
1884 Autobiography Samuel K. Hoshour Samuel K. Hoshour
1888 Hawaii and a Revolution: the personal experiences of a correspondent in the Sandwich Islands during the crisis of 1893 and subsequently Mary H. Krout
1888 Land of the Pueblos Susan E. Wallace
1888 Life of General Benjamin Harrison Lew Wallace
1888 The Repose in Egypt Susan E. Wallace
1890 Rhymes of Childhood James Whitcomb Riley
1891 Short Flights Meredith Nicolson
1893 The Prince of India or Why Constantinople Fell Lew Wallace
1894 Ginevra: A Christmas Story Susan E. Wallace
1897 Commodus Lew Wallace
1898 The Wooing of Maikatoon Lew Wallace
1898 When Knighthood was in Flower Charles Major
1899 Along the Bosphorus Susan E. Wallace
1899 Fables in Slang George Ade
1899 The Gentlemen from Indiana Booth Tarkington
1900 Alice of Old Vincennes Maurice Thompson
1900 Sister Carrie Theodore Dreiser
1901 Graustark: The Story of a Love Behind a Throne George Barr McCutcheon
1901 The Bears of the Blue River Charles Major
1902 Brewsters’   Millions George Barr McCutcheon
1902 The County Chairman George Ade
1903 The City of the King: What the Child Jesus Saw and Heard Susan E. Wallace
1903 The Sherrods George Barr McCutcheon
1903 The Song of the Cardinal Gene Stratton-Porter
1904 Freckles Gene Stratton-Porter
1906 House of A Thousand Candles Meredith Nicolson
1906 Lew Wallace: An Autobiography Lew Wallace
1907 Raggedy Man James Whitcomb Riley
1907 Rosalind at Red Gate Meredith Nicolson
1907 The Port of Missing Men Meredith Nicolson
1909 The Girl of the Limberlost and Other Stories Gene Stratton-Porter
1910 Truxton King: A Story of Graustark George Barr McCutcheon
1911 The Siege of the Seven Suitors Meredith Nicolson
1912 A Hoosier Chronicle Meredith Nicolson
1912 Dorothy Vernon of Haddon Hall Charles Major
1912 The Hoosier Hand Book and True Guide for the Returning Exile George Ade
1912 Moths of the Limberlost Gene Stratton-Porter
1912 The Financier Theodore Dreiser
1912 The Spartan Caroline Dale Snedeker
1913 Laddie: A True Blue Story Gene Stratton-Porter
1914 American Citizenship Charles Austin Beard, Mary Ritter Beard
1914 Penrod Booth Tarkington
1914 The Titan Theodore Dreiser
1915 The Higher Education of Women May Wright Sewall
1915 The Woman Suffrage Movement in Indiana May Wright Sewall
1915 Woman’s Work in Municipalities Mary Ritter Beard
1916 Hoosier Mosaics Maurice Thompson
1916 Seventeen Booth Tarkington
1918 Daughter of the land Gene Stratton-Porter
1918 The Hand of the Potter Theodore Dreiser
1918 Lady Larkspur Meredith Nicolson
1918 The Magnificent Ambersons Booth Tarkington
1920 Anderson Crow, Detective George Barr McCutcheon
1920 Hand-made Fables George Ade
1920 Neither the Dead Nor Sleeping May Wright Sewall
1921 Alice Adams Booth Tarkington
1921 Her Father’s Daughter Gene Stratton-Porter
1922 Best Laid Schemes Meredith Nicolson
1925 An American Tragedy Theodore Dreiser

I was struck by the number of books that recounted travels to exotic locales, about Indiana, and suffrage—and a book by a female journalist about revolution in Hawaii. Some authors are well known to me. Others completely new. As a returning ex-pat, I am curious to see what Ade wrote in his work The Hoosier Hand Book and True Guide for the Returning Exile. (It looks like I will need to traipse down to the Indiana State Library to see a copy of that book!)

Although the golden age of Indiana literature officially ended in 1920, Indiana has continued to produce writers. The exhibit references the following modern authors.

Kurt Vonnegut
Eric Flint
Kate Collins
Ernie Pyle
Jessamyn West
Norman Bridwell
Paul Hutchins
Jane Lambert
Meg Cabot
John Green

The library of the first in the list, Kurt Vonnegurt, is moving to a new location in 2017—to Mass Ave (one of Indy’s cool alternative neighborhoods). The last in the list is the author whose work was recently made into a movie, The Fault in Our Stars.

Indiana weather may not just be responsible for a slew of writers as Powell speculated, but also for readers—like me—who seek to escape the heat and the cold.